Garden sheds are a wonderful addition to any backyard, however there are a few things to consider before choosing and purchasing your shed. First of all you need to consider the space you have available and what size shed you require.

What items will you be putting in your shed? You will also need a good place to build your shed, this includes an easy place to get to and fit it to your taste. You’ll also need to see if your city requires any zoning permits before you begin construction. After considering all of these numbers you just have to decide if you want to pay someone to build it for you or choose DIY Shed Plans. These plans come with a high recommendation for several reasons.

The first reason to purchase DIY Shed Plans is for the most obvious reason: the ability to customize your very own garden shed. Each household has different reasons for needing a garden shed. Some families will use it to store their off season tools and items. Others will use it as an active storage area where all the tools are kept and such.

Whatever the need for a garden shed they will all require shelving, hooks, and other various organization items for different purposes.DIY Shed Plans will ensure that you really be getting the shed of your dreams and that will really suit your family’s needs.

The second reason for using a DIY Shed Plan is that it can be a lot more inexpensive than purchasing a pre-built shed. The first thing you will need after plans is the materials to start construction. Remember to shop around and find good deals on the materials you will be needing. You will also be able to choose your own budget because there is not a set price for materials, unlike the fixed fee set by manufactured sheds.

Lastly, there’s nothing like the pride of a job well done, using a DIY Shed Plan to construct your own shed will give you a project to enjoy and be proud of. This shed will show your accomplishments and prove that you can get things done by yourself, not to mention you will have a new garden shed to use.

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What exactly is hypertufa? Well, it’s a man made tufa looking material that is used to create a variety of garden art objects. It’s a sort of artificial stone that was created to substitute the natural tufa rock. In this article we will take a look at how it’s made and what uses it has.

Hypertufa is made from various ingredients and was developed to replicate the real Tufa rock. It’s a mixture of Portland cement, peat moss, sand, perlite, vermiculite, and water. There are a number of recipes you can mix up. The most basic recipe is sand (or perlite) mixed together with cement and peat moss.

What is hypertufa good for? It has a myriad of uses, you are limited only by your imagination. It’s perfect for plant containers, stepping stones, sculptures, fake rocks and all sorts of garden ornaments. It’s really amazing what you can make with it.

Making hypertufa is not much different than a child making mud pies. It’s equally fun. You need a mixture and a mold. For molds you can use all kinds of items you can find around the house. Tupperware, pans, pots, various containters, cardboard boxes, wastebaskets, even halloween masks can come in handy.

The process is simple. You apply the mixture to the outside of the mold, cover it with a garbage bag and seal tightly. If you’re making planters, don’t forget to add drainage holes. Put it under the sun for about 3-5 days, then carefully remove from the mold. Cover it up again with plastic bag and allow it to cure for about a month. That’s it.

A word of advice – start simple. Mixing and building hypertufa is a like mixing and baking a cake. You don’t start with a complicated cake recipe, you start easy and work your way up.

Hypertufa is certainly a wonderful way to spruce up your garden. It’s fun, easy and not expensive to make. And it gets your creative juices going.

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Obtain a worm bin.

* These can be purchased from many online vendors or your local gardening or farm supply store.
* You can build your own. Use rubber storage totes, galvanized tubs, wood, or plastic.

Material: Rubber is cheap, easy to use and durable. Galvanized tubs are somewhat costly but will last forever. Wood will eventually be eaten, and plastic cracks easily, but either will do in a pinch.

Drilling holes to ventilate a rubber tub.

Ventilation: Your bin should be well-ventilated, with several 1/8 inch (3mm) holes 4 inches (100mm) from the bottom (otherwise the worms will stay at the bottom of the bin and you may drown your worms). For example, you can build a worm bin out of a large plastic tub with several dozen small holes drilled out on the bottom and sides.
o Size: The larger you make the container, the more worms it can sustain. Estimate 1 pound (0.45kg) of worms (1,200) for every square foot of surface area. The maximum productive depth for your bin is 24 inches (61cm) deep because composting worms will not go further down than that.
o Cover: The bin should have a cover to prevent light from getting in and to prevent the compost from drying out. Choose or make a lid that can be removed if your compost is too wet. Use a canvas tarp, doubled over and bungee-corded on, or kept in place with wood. Burlap sacks also work well, and can be watered directly.

* Use 4 old car tires: To make a four-tire wormery, create a base from old bricks or flagstones (must be flat and with as few cracks as possible). Place a layer of heavy newspaper on top of the bricks. Stuff four old tires with newspapers. Pile the tires on top of each other, with the first tire on the Sunday newspaper. Put some scrunched up paper or cardboard in the bottom to soak up any excess liquid. Fill the tire wormery with organic material (semi-composted is best). Add the composting worms (tiger or brandling species are best). Use a piece of board weighed down with bricks as a lid. The lid must be big enough to stop rain getting in. Harvest a tire’s worth of fertilizer roughly every 8 weeks (during warm months).

Shredded newspaper for worm bedding.
Prepare the box for worms. Fill your bin with thin strips of unbleached corrugated cardboard or shredded newspaper, straw, dry grass, or some similar material. This provides a source of fiber to the worms and keeps the bin well-ventilated. Sprinkle a handful of dirt on top, and thoroughly moisten. Allow the water to soak in for at least a day before adding worms. You can also use Canadian peat moss, which is more expensive but yields a loamier vermicompost.

Worms arrive.

Get worms. There are several varieties of worms that that are bred and sold commercially for vermicomposting; just digging up earthworms from your backyard is not recommended. The Internet or local gardening club is your best bet for finding a worm vendor near you. The worms most often used, Eisenia foetida (Red Wigglers), are about 4 inches long, mainly red along the body with a yellow tail. Another variety to consider are Eisenia hortensis, known as “European Night crawlers.” They do not reproduce quite as fast as the red wigglers, but grow to be larger, eat courser paper and cardboard better, and seem to be heartier. They are also better fishing worms when they do reach full size. However, with any non-native species, it is important not to allow them to reach the wild. Their voracious appetites and reproductive rates (especially among the red wigglers) have been known to upset the delicate balance of the hardwood forests by consuming the leaf litter too quickly. This event leaves too little leaf letter to slowly incubate the hard shelled nuts and leads to excessive erosion as well as negatively affecting the pH of the soil. So, do your best to keep them confined!

Feed your worms fruit and vegetable scraps and refresh the bedding as necessary.

Duration : 0:4:2

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Forgive the audio- its rough in places due to several combined factors (such as a windy day, rattling Radio Flyer wagons and planes passing overhead).

Instructions for the compost tea maker can be found here:
http://dchall.home.texas.net/organic/teamaker/

Bruce’s website is http://www.natureapproved.net

Duration : 0:10:10

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Duration : 0:6:28

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